secret

Sihanoukville

Cambodia's beach boom town is sprawled across a large area and divided into several neighborhoods, each with its own distinct character.  Pick the wrong guesthouse from an out of date guidebook and you could easily find yourself surrounded by old German men with teenage Cambodian girlfriends, paradise for some, but not appealing to the rest of us.  It’s easy to see why so many people have a bad time in this place, but all it takes to enjoy Sihanoukville is a little inside information.

If you do your research before coming, Sihanoukville will blow you away.  Empty beaches or full moon parties, great Japanese food or jungle trekking, this town has something for everyone, but finding the right spots takes a little efffort.  The most crucial first step is to set yourself up with a good home base in an atmosphere where you can relax.  For me, that means a clean, inexpensive room in a quiet neighborhood, ideally a small family run place, with great food a big plus.  Here are four recommendations that fit the bill in Sihanoukville. 

Geckozy Guesthouse

The peaceful garden at Geckozy is my favorite place to relax in Sihanoukville.  As a writer, the affordable wireless internet is also a big draw, but even better are the convenient location and price – I’ve paid a lot more for a lot less. 

Geckozy is only a block from the heart of downtown, but it feels like a country chateau from the French colonial days.  The restaurant is seldom busy, but the food is pretty darn good.  Pasta meals are a solid value that include salad and bread for around $2.  The rooms are thoughtfully decorated, with singles and twins from $4 to $6. 

Lovely Guesthouse

This is the first place I stayed in Sihanoukville, and I still stop by often to eat great home cooked meals and visit with the wonderful Cambodian family who run the guesthouse.  Lovely is close to Ocheauteal, the busiest beach in Sihanoukville.  The rooms are decent value at $3-$5, but not exceptional.  What makes the place special is the friendly atmosphere and the delicious curry. Most moto taxi drivers know Lovely, which is in back of the Golden Sand Hotel.

Cloud Nine

Cloud Nine is the best of the cluster of guesthouses on Serendipity Beach.  It’s more than twice the price of Geckozy and Lovely, but the bungalows are secluded and the view sweet. Cloud 9 also gets major points for its mango smoothies which are hands down the tops in town. 

Monkey Republic

Monkey Republic is the place for those who want to party, but prefer hooking up with one another to buying sex from locals.  The bar is busy, the bungalows are cheap and Serendipity Beach is right down the road.  A good place to make friends. 

Other ideas –

Otres Beach – quiet for now, but a beach this nice doesn’t stay chill for long.  Get there before the crowds arrive.  Otres is the beach East of Ocheauteal.

Koh Rong Island – want to feel like an explorer?  Koh Rong has world class beaches and not a single indoor toilet – not least none I could find.  Plenty of places run day trips for around $50, or poke around at the fishing port and bargain for a cheap ride. Just don't blame me if you get eaten by bats.

Oh, and the great Japanese food?  Try the sashimi at Kukai, just down the road from Monkey Republic. 

Want to check out the quiet side of the Cambodian Coast? Chill out, eat great seafood and make sweet romance in Kep. Your secret guide is right here.